Sinking Deeper

Once the initial parts for the sink were glued up (the large U shape sections), it was time to make the actual components.  Ideally, I wouldn’t have had to take the previous step, but I am working with a limited stock size, partly as a bit of an exercise, partly because I have the timber, and don’t feel like buying something else.  The redgum is being salvaged from the ugliest, oldest sleeper you would have seen in a long time.  Always surprising just how much good timber is hidden behind a rough façade.

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Creating the sink template

To cut the individual sections out, I created a template from MDF.  It is easy to draw up and shape to the required profile.

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Template attached

In this case, I didn’t have to worry about screw holes, so it was easier and less problematic to use screws (Kreg square drive).  You may wonder about the amount of timber wasted here inside the sink.  It won’t be going to waste, as I intend to use this again in the same way to produce some other (as yet undecided) kitchen appliances.

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Bandsawing around the template

To remove the bulk of the material, the bandsaw works exceptionally well.  Cutting near to the template reduces the load on the pattern copying router bit.

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Routing to shape

Over to the router table, and with a pattern bit (a straight cutter with a bearing on top), each piece of the sink is routed to shape.  (The photo above has the piece upside down)

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Glued and clamped

Next, each piece is glued and clamped together to form the body of the sink.  The ends have also been cut using the same template, but obviously only the outside is cut and routed.

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Spindle Sanding

The spindle sander is next, and is the perfect tool for this job.  It may not get the full depth, but flipping the workpiece over a few times keeps things pretty even.

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Fine sanding

The size of the sink just allowed me to get the ETS150 inside, but it isn’t ideal for sanding around corners…..except I have a soft sanding pad (from Ideal Tools).  This has hooks on one side, and loops on the other, so it acts as a spacer between the original sanding pad and the sandpaper.  With this, it is really easy to sand all sorts of concave and convex profiles.

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Soft sanding pad

This is the soft sanding pad – a very useful addition for the ROS.

***Update: it is called an interface pad, and can be found here

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Attaching the sides

With the inside done, the sides of the sink can be attached.  This (and the next image) were actually photographed before the glueup, but it gives you the idea.

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Laminated sink

So that is how I make the laminated sink, still ensuring that the entire project can be made from timber.  Not sure if I will be able to maintain that ideal for the entire project, but I am still working towards it.  Very pleased I used contrasting timber this time – might as well make a feature of the laminations!

Enter, the Router Table

Taking the first components off to the next stage of the process involves the router table, and the rail & stile plus raised panel bits.

Cutting the interior profile

After some test cuts, the router table was set up to run the rails and stiles through the first router bit.  I use MagSwitch featherboards to hold the timber against the router table fence. They are so easy to position, and hold fast to the cast iron top of my router table.  Make you think it fortunate my router table is cast iron, but it came about in the reverse order.  I made the router table out of cast iron so that I could use MagSwitches on it.

Woodpeckers Coping Sled

After changing to the complementary router bit, it was time to cut the end grain of the rails.  If you ever wonder how to remember which is which, think about rails being horizontal.  They certainly are for trains! The stile is the other one.

The Woodpeckers Coping Sled is awesome for this task.  It holds the rails perfectly, and perpendicular to the direction of travel.  If I had taken more care, I would have used a sacrificial backing.  Probably should have – hardwood tears out a bit too easily. I’ll make sure I do when cutting the doors for the sink unit.

I just checked – the coping sled is still available from Professional Woodworkers Supplies.  They now have a mini one as well, but given the full sized one is on special, I’d still go with that one (the one pictured above).  There is so much more with this one, it is worth the difference.

Sanding the panels

After removing the panels being glued up in the Frontline clamps, I used the Festool belt sander to do a final flattening (including removing any glue squeezeout).  The large sander weights 7kg, and when coupled with the sled means you can hold the handle, and, well, hang on – letting the tool do all the work.  The work is clamped up using brass dogs on the vice, and dogs in holes in the table.

Panel bit

Once sanded (not the final sand – more a sizing sand than a finishing one), it was back to the router table, this time with a raised panel bit.  I don’t have a raised panel bit with a cutter for the back yet, so have to adjust it manually. This is not the final pass, but an intermediate one to check fit.  Best to do the crossgrain first, then the longgrain.

Panel bit

This is a monster bit – pretty much at the limit that a router can (or rather should) drive.  The run at the slowest speed still gets a decent tip speed.

Test fit

A quick test fit showed I was close, but still needs another pass to get it there.  Looking good though.  Will look even better when I do the 3D routing into each panel!  Once that routing is done (next session), then I can glue the panels up.

Thicknessing undersized stock

One thing I have been surprised with so far, is the lack of waste.  I’d always try to use timber to maximise yield, but there is always waste.  So far I’d not have enough offcuts to fill a 10L bucket – the yield is exceptional.

Even these thin panels that were ripped off the 19-20mm thick boards.  They will be perfect for the back of the units.  I wanted to run them through the thicknesser, but it just doesn’t go thin enough.  To solve that problem, I clamped on a sled.  The boards would not feed initially, but with a quick rubdown with Sibergleit, the boards fed through smoothly and easily.  I wouldn’t do this with any timber, or to go too thin, but it will get you out of trouble.
So a good session.  Progress seems slow, but this is always the slow part of any project.  Once the items are cut, and some preliminary joinery done, it usually flies together.

 

Some good news and bad news.  The good news is that I am documenting sessions on video.  Bad news is I am not planning on releasing the video until the project is complete!

Stu’s Shed at the Melbourne Wood Show

In a week (tomorrow) is the start of the Melbourne Timber and Working with Wood Show.  The maps are now out on the Impressive Exhibitions website, and can be found here.   Exhibitor List  and  Floor Plan

Zooming in on the plan, and right near the entrance is Triton’s stand (#20 & #21), and as part of that is Stu’s Shed (and thanks to Triton (aka Kincrome) for use of part of their stand).

Stu's Shed at Melbourne Show

Stu’s Shed at Melbourne Show

I am still working on just how the stand will look (and function)- Kincrome are providing benches and storage units that look pretty cool, and provide a decent amount of working area.  I will have a Triton router table there (again provided by Kincrome) so can do some demos on that, and I’m hopeful of having one of the new Comet lathes from Teknatool as well.  Over the next week, the plan will reveal itself  (to me as well!)

Kincrome Worx Modular

Kincrome Worx Modular

Now I’ve a better idea of the location and size, I’ll make some modifications to my ideas – scale back some concepts!  Not a bad thing – it is very easy to try to do too much – grandiose plans!

 

Ready for the next revolution?

With the addition of the DVR motor to the lathe, it was transformed into a stunning machine, powerful, energy efficient, futuristic even.

So the next revolution? (Sorry about the pun!)

Teknatool are developing a DVR drill press!

No more belts, pulley slippage, belt vibration.  No more bogging down of a drill bit as the bit meets resistance and because of the pulley ratios, the motor is stalled.

The ability to easily tilt the drill head over and angle it to the workpiece which is maintained on a flat surface, rather than having to angle the workpiece to a fixed head.  I know there are some drill presses that can achieve this, but few and far between.

Instead of drilling a hole at whatever speed that the drill press is set for (and just how often do we change the belt speed for a single hole)? you’d have no excuse not to dial in exactly the right speed, each and every time. It is going to be a great drillpress!

 

Thinking about it, with the motor onboard the head (direct drive), then the plunge mechanism moves the whole lot – chuck and motor combined.  There is no limit then to the amount of plunge that is available.

DVR Drillpress

DVR Drillpress

Looking forward to seeing the DVR motor included on other machines – thicknessers, saw tables, bandsaws etc.  Instead of a router mounted under a router table, how about a DVR motor?  Seriously awesome!

Deja Vu in orange

Hope you are not holding anything liquid above your keyboard right now: I guess you are already sitting down!

I have a new addition for the shed (although it won’t be a permanent setup, but one bought in when required):

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Bet you never saw that coming!

I was putting the table together today, and was again struck (as I was when I first came across Triton), by the quality of the engineering design, and the manufacturing (understanding, and given the limitations of pressed steel).

The amount of thought that went into the product, the design concepts: superb. It is good to have had a chance to put a unit together again: reminded me of what attracted me to Triton in the first place.

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The fence is a big part of the innovations: from the adjustable (& removable) hold-downs…

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The moveable fences, which can also have shims inserted behind. I remember when the spring-loaded fence attachments were released as an upgrade, making setting the fence position so much easier than it was previously.

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The guard, which doubles as a freehand router post and dust clearance is also clever in its simplicity, and ability to be detacted and fitted directly to the table top.

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The microadjusters, allowing 1/10mm adjustment to the fence position, and also for creating rebates and rabbets the exact thickness of a board, without the use of a rule or caliper.

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This is the upgraded base- allows the Triton router to be quickly mounted and removed without additional clamps. Remember when that upgrade came out as well!

So not sure where all this will lead. More Triton content probably! We’ll see what comes next.

Rockin’ the Router Table

It’s never the big parts of a job that take the time, it is all the fiddly bits at the end! Same applies to finishing off the router table, but when you are not in a rush, that time is not wasted or regretted.

With “The Wire” playing on the Shed’s TV, I kept plodding through the various outstanding tasks.  It also happened that a collection of three tools that arrived late last week played an integral role in the activities.  And exemplified themselves as useful additions to the shed beautifully, from cutting openings, drilling holes, driving screws, the collection of Lithium-Ion power tools from Rockwell proved to be as fun to use, as they were effective.

First job was creating access to the router, and I wanted it to be a door that would hold shut when a vacuum was created by the dust extraction that allowed easy access when needing to switch the router off for bit changes, and use the macro-height adjustment of the Triton router.

Cutting the access way

The desired opening was marked out, and where this would often be cut with a jigsaw, the oscillating saw does a great job.  The added convenience of the cordless version was excellent.

Plunging corners

Firstly, I plunged the cutter into each corner, defining sharp corners, then ran the saw from one corner to the next to break out the panel.

Access opening

The oscillating cutter (the Sonicrafter in Rockwell/Worx speak) was then used for sanding – breaking the sharp edges of the MDF.  One benefit of the oscillating cutter is it can work right into the corner, where more classic sanders would bounce themselves out of a restricted area.

A door was then fabricated, with cabinet hinges. Support for the hinges inside the cabinet was made, with pocketholes creating a solid foundation for the door support.

Sealed Hinge Door

I created a seal over the hinge-side of the door – normally disguised by typical cabinet designs.  There are other hinges I could have used, but these were ones I had already.  A handle from another discontinued project worked well here (think it came from the drill press drawer thinking about it).

Triton Router in place

I made sure there was plenty of space below the router – makes for better shape to the air flow for dust collection.  One thing I have yet to determine, is whether extra air-inlet holes are required – I am expecting they would be, except there are large gaps under the cast iron top, so plenty of air can flow through those gaps and flow down past the router to the collection port. I may even need to reduce the gaps to increase the suction through the hole in the router table top – only testing will determine how optimal the dust collection design is.

Starter

The starter was attached to the side of the table – given sometimes the router is accessed from the front, and other times from the right side, this corner is accessible for either operation.  A hole was drilled behind the switch to feed the flex into the cabinet to connect to the router.

The upper opening you can see to the right of the switch is where I am hoping to install some thin drawers to house the Incra templates for the LS Positioner, and the template book.  The lower opening will probably store some other routers. (Yes, I have one or two!)

Wixey Digital Height Gauge

I also found a location to mount the Digital readout from the height gauge that is affixed to the side of my router.  It does jut out from there over the fence, but for the majority of operations it won’t get in the way where it is.  I have attached it using bolts with the same hex heads as the rest of the Positioner (and the supplied hex drive), and butterfly nuts on the other side, so it can be very easily removed whenever it is necessary (routing tall object for example).

Ready to Rock

Speaking of rocking, these are the complement of tools I used, almost exclusively, and I was pretty stoked how they performed.

Rockwell Cordless Collection

If they look a bit dusty, that is because they were being used, not just admired.  I was expecting them to come in a single kit, so was surprised to discover they were each in a separate package.  Although that means you’ve gotten extra chargers, I’m not objecting – just means I can have one at either end of the workshop ready to go!

Quick charger

And the collection of interchangeable batteries won’t go astray either, even though the chargers are quick (15 minutes to 75%, 30 minutes to 100% charge).

Sonicrafter - Oscillating Cutter

The oscillating cutter was used with both blades and sanding attachments, stripping paint off the cast iron edges, cutting the opening, then sanding the cuts and rounding the edges.

10mm Drill

The drill is quite lightweight, but still has a good feel, and worked well with the holecutter, as well as the Kreg Pockethole jig.

Impact Driver

Finally, the rather impressive impact driver.  Never had one before, or even used one, so this was a bit of a first.  Feels solid, and works!  Initially drives smoothly, but when it gets to a particular torque level, the high-frequency impacting kicks in driving the screw (or whatever) home.

The combination of the three proved very effective in covering a whole variety of jobs that I had on, and the ability to interchange the rapidly charging batteries is a definite bonus.

Router Table End Game

Went ahead with the plan to re-establish a separate router table, and using the Incra Router Table stand as the base.

Step one was putting the base together.  It comes in a pretty compact form.  Lots of screws!  I also decided to get the optional wheel kit.

Typical of Incra, the basis for the router stand is a complicated, well designed anodised aluminium extrusion.  In this case, it is based around a corner, with two tracks for the fixtures, and two for the 12mm sides.

The wheel kit has one pivot wheel which can be raised and lowered, and two fixed wheels.

The frame together, ready to be wheeled to the shed.  I could have done this down there, but hey, what else are back rooms for?!

The frame at this point was pretty flimsy, and I was just starting to wonder if it was going to be able to withstand the weight of my router table. Being a cast iron top, and not a small one at that, it weighs in excess of 80kg.  But I was still expecting the MDF sides and base would add quite a degree of stability.

The stand was relocated to the shed, and placed in around about its ‘final’ home.

To make room for it, there was again quite a bit of shuffling, and this time the lathe got relocated to the other end of the workshop.

At the same time, I took the opportunity to do a few other jobs I’d been planning, including getting rid of the drawer unit under the drill press table.  The Pro Drill Press table will again be mounted directly to the drill press platform.  I have not liked the old way to raise and lower the drill press, so I’ve added a large cast iron wheel on an extension bar . This will then get secured underneath to the drill press table top.

The extension bar is an old socket set extension bar, and the wheel is from some old thicknesser or similar.  With a bit of adaption, some grinding, then a tapped hole for a bolt to secure the wheel to the bar at the back. This’ll stop me having to reach behind the table to raise and lower the table!  It will look a lot better when the pro top is reattached.

Next, I started adding the MDF sides, base and shelf.  Into the shelf I used an oscillating cutter (a Fein in this case) to cut a square hole.  An oscillating cutter is the modern version of a jigsaw.  Pretty much incapable of hurting the operator (unless you really try!), it cuts a very fine kerf line.  No where near as fast as a jigsaw, but also significantly neater.  An no need to drill starting holes, or tip toe around corners to produce a square corner.

This hole was cut to fit a dust extraction hood in that will sit directly below the router.

This was screwed down, and the 4″ pipe will come out from the lower layer of the unit, rather than trying to direct the sawdust down to a low point and out the side of the base.

Both the upper and lower areas will get boxed off to control dust movements around the base.  From this angle you can also see the shelf supports I’ve added.

I’ve decided to fully box in the router in the first instance, then address what access I do need afterwards.  I’d like to not have to access the router at all, which would be possible if I was willing to use a router bit extender permanently, but I’m still not comfortable with that.

In any case, it was time to add the top, and that involved what was effectively a dead-lift to get the top in place.  Cast iron is heavy!  What I’d do to have a gantry crane in the shed!

With the sides and bases added, the stand became a lot more rigid.  With the weight of the top, it all became quite functional, and once I add a few screws etc, everything will lock together nicely.

Still plenty to do to finish the table, but I got it to the point I wanted for the weekend – it really looks the part.

Some outstanding jobs: Add the starter box, attach the Wixey digital height gauge, cut the access point to the router, connect the table to the 4″ extraction system.  Down track I’ll be adding some drawers to store the various LS positioner rules, some in-table router bit storage and who knows where else the ideas will lead.  Happy with how it is looking so far!

Return to the Router Table

I’m sitting here at 3 in the morning (the only time of the day I have time to think for myself!) contemplating the practicalities of shed layout.  I keep asking myself why does this question keep cropping up (especially when I could be doing something more productive like a project (or at 3am like sleeping!)), but I guess it is dwelling on my mind because it still isn’t right.

The space, or lack thereof, is killing me out there, but it is what it is so I have to try to work my way around it.

My current issue is still the router table.  Despite using the top of the Torque Workcentre as a compromised stand, I keep finding it too much of a compromise – I want the router table to be have an identity of its own, not to have to co-habit with another machine.

For a long time I have thought this stand, from Professional Woodworkers Supplies was the answer, and I still do.

It looks good, looks easy to assemble – I could have a free-standing router table in no time.  So that is a done deal.  That isn’t the real problem.  The problem is where to put it!

I don’t have an answer to that…..yet, but already the gears are grinding once again as I contemplate the tool moves required to make it happen.  More tweaks than anything, but a plan is growing.  I’ll definitely be including that wheel kit – all the tools in my workshop need some capacity to move.  As much as I try to keep them static, they occasionally have to be shifted to make room (more often than not, for another one of those tool moves I keep seeming to do!)

What has sparked this all off is once again the damned team from Torque Workcentres who have finalised the slabbing jig (the chainsaw mount), and so I started thinking about using that when it arrives, and in my mind’s eye I saw the router table getting in the way, and well you know the rest!

Now I’ve worked through it, it feels like the the grey matter has made sufficient progress to allow me to sleep once again.  Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

One Thing Leads to Another

And another.

I often find myself looking back, and seeing just how many decisions and events that lead to others, the culmination of which leads to the present moment/situation etc.

For example, after completing a degree in Engineering (Mechanical) at Auckland University, I decided for a range of obscure reasons (and some not as obscure) to join the military.  I was aiming for pilot in the RNZAF, and did exceptionally well in the initial tests.  At the same time, I put in an application for the Army (not sure why).  I can’t quite remember when I put in an application for the Navy – it was either at the same time, or after getting home and thinking about it then did so the next day.  Either way, I really wasn’t considering the Navy seriously – months at sea didn’t seem to be me.  But I applied anyway, with the idea that the application would be good practice for the airforce application.

The Army fell through, and sadly so did the Airforce (something about them not having a pilot intake that year or something).  However the Navy snapped me up, particularly given I already had a BE (Mech).

The Navy lead to spending a lot of time in Melbourne with the ANZAC ship project, and on leaving, I decided for some reason, to move to Melbourne.  One thing lead to another, and here I remain, with a wife, child, and a mortgage.  And a shed.  If all these events hadn’t lined up in just a particular way, we wouldn’t be here now.  That is just one example, and I guess we all have such stories.

I was out in the shed this afternoon, and again a “one thing leading to another” moment became apparent.  I decided to modify the router table.

Looking back, and again those dominoes lined themselves up ready to be knocked over.

The Torque Workcentre is an obvious one – the size of it took over a fair corner of the shed, resulting in the requirement to remove the original router table, which I then incorporated into my TWC.

Domino two is the bandsaw, and the way I originally oriented the router end on the TWC was fine with the 14″ bandsaw, but became somewhat more cramped with the 19″

Number three was the arrival in the drive of the 3.5m TWC for me to assess.  A few quick tweaks and it ran like a dream, and looking over its magnificent length, I became enamored with all that extra capacity (an extra metre longer than my table), and I went looking at the shed in the offchance it would actually fit.  It won’t (damn), although I saw that a 3m table would potentially do so, but I would loose access to that end of the table, and therefore the router table.  I began thinking about how I might rejig things if I did, and so the seeds for rotating the router table were sown.

The last domino, which tipped the whole lot over was the cyclone duct collector.  Given its overall height, it wasn’t suitable to fit under the TWC (the machine it will primarily be used on, as well as the Festools), so up at one end was the next best, again blocking the router table.  One thing had lead to another, and I found myself rotating the table around.  It then also gave me the opportunity to extend it back to being 5 tablesaw wings – a good chunk of cast iron!  In the meantime, I had found the orientation I had the router table meant it was less accessible than I’d want for what I regard as a primary shop machine, and by turning it towards the front, this also got addressed.

Everything clicked into place after that – the Incra was secured via a couple of bolts through holes drilled in the top. I’ve lost some range, but only with the TWC where it is.  If I need more router table range, I can switch it around the the old securing points, or simply pull the TWC further away from the wall.

The router table fence is not encroaching on the TWC as much, and although I have sacrificed about 700mm of the overall TWC range, I can get this back if ever needed.  The dust extraction (that is now coupled into the cyclone) also plugs directly into the router table fence, like it was made for it.

So another of a long list of refinements, as the shed slowly conforms to my will.

The cyclonic culprit

New Router Table Orientation

Note the extra length of the router table – 5 tablesaw wings.

Dust extraction from router table fence (to cyclone)

Same dust extraction coupled to the TWC

The slow-assembly of a TWC

Finally, this is just a photo of the TWC I am currently assembling (and documenting for the new assembly and operation manual I am writing).  Finished drilling the holes for the top (not secured down).

Cleaned up all the MDF with the cyclone – very effective!  My only criticism that is coming to light is the top of the unit.  It seems to be made from too-thin a material as it gets sucked down very easily, not enough to break the seal, but more of a deflection than I would have thought acceptable.  Would have though it would have been made strong enough to resist the vacuum generated by a standard small shop vac.

So with one thing leading to another, who knows where the current steps will fit into another bigger picture!

CutSetter

Ever tried setting up your router table with a steel rule?  I’ve done it tonnes of times, and it is a compromise situation.  If you have a split fence, it is a right pain even finding the fence zero point with a basic steel rule.  If the fence is solid, you still have to ensure the rule is square to the fence.  So that is how it is done in a lot of workshops, and yes, you can set up the fence that way.  The question is, how do professionals do it?

One workshop created their own rule on a CNC machine, and used it successfully for years in the gilding and picture framing business on complicated moulding setups, before deciding it might actually be something that the wider woodworking community might actually be interested in.

The basic premise is a transparent rule called a CutSetter with clearly defined markings, and the reference plane is not a thin edge of a rule, but the full side.  Each mark position is offset so there is no chance of getting mixed up with which line you are reading off.  It only measures to a maximum of 100mm from the fence, but that describes 99% of all setups.  The interesting part of this is the reference points.  The fence is long (obviously), as is the edge of the rule that references off it.  What it is measuring to is the tip of the router bit, and the markings are also basically a point reference.  Simple, smart.

CutSetter - Setting Fence Position

The other benefit of a long edge against the fence is that it makes it very obvious if the two halves of the fence are in line.  Or, if they are not intended to be in line, the markings at the edge allow you to choose the amount of offset.

Aside: A rule has the measurements start from the end, whereas a ruler has a gap between the end and the measurements

Setting Fence Depth - Through Ruler Reading

Setting Bit Height

The above-two photos show the router-fence distance and height accurately set.

It is a very quick and easy tool to use, and often will be all that is needed to set up your router table, and repeat setups.  I like this tool – it is simple, and does the job it is designed for.

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