Power to the people

The ability to make, and harness fire was a defining moment in the history of man.  Being able to progress from utilising fire found in nature, to being able to produce it at will and use it for a variety of tasks, from cooking, hunting (herding animals), through to defense, lighting, heating and more.

Despite the original sources of fire often being electrical (lightning), it was a millenia before electricity itself was harnessed as a tool.

The modern man struggles to make fire to be honest – when was the last time you tried…..without a match or other commercial ignition source?  And it is even worse where it comes to electricity – what do you do when the grid goes down, or worse, you are nowhere near the grid at all?  Sure, solar power is becoming readily available, but unless you want to charge your laptop, portable solar power generation is still in its infancy.

So when you need to generate some serious power, you need a serious tool.  And as a bit of a twist, where fire was first produced with electricity, we need to turn that around, and use fire to produce electricity on demand.

There are a whole range of generators out there, but many would struggle to run a jigsaw, let alone anything serious.  Those that can really run up in price.

In (hopefully) the near future, the shed will be reestablished again, and there will be a time where power will not be available – I could run extension cords from the house, but they are not 15A supplies, so the tablesaw and thicknesser would be both out of action until the electrician can wire it all up.  And with 2HP of dust extractor, and 2400W tools to use alongside that, there is some serious power required.

To address these requirements (and a number of others), we have quite an extraordinary machine.  It comes from Promac – the team that has bought us the quality Flai U blade, the incredible Mustang blade, the exacting BMI range, and the Tormek wetstone sharpeners. I mention this range as it demonstrates the quality of the tools that Promac chooses to supply, and straight out of the box, the quality of this product starts to become apparent.

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It is heavy – 88kg dry. Add to this 25L of fuel, and a litre (or so) of oil, and even as the fuel tank empties, you have around 110kg of serious machine.

So what do we have here? Under that 25L tank sits a 13HP electric start motor.  13HP!  I am so used to dealing with machines that top out at 3 1/4HP (the limit of power that can be produced with 2400W tools), 13HP is an impressive motor.  Compare that to your average lawnmower: 3 – 6HP.  Got to be happy it is electric start!  It still has a pull start as well – hope I never need that ;) Output: twin 15A GPOs providing a combined 6.8kVA with 0.8PF (power factor), which in more understandable terms is 5000W, peak load 5500W.  There is also 12V DC if required.

You may wonder why a 6.8kVA machine doesn’t produce 6800W (after all, V x A = W), but there is another dimension here – the volts and amps can be out of phase with each other, and the amount they are is represented by a value between 0 and 1, called the power factor.  Machines that start under load (such as welders and air compressors) demand significant kVA to start.  A general rule of thumb is to work out what is 3x the HP, and this is around the kVA needed by the generator for soft-start motors that start under load.  So this generator can operate a 140A welder, or 10CFM compressor.  In the workshop, I’d be looking to start the dust extractor (which also starts under load), then devices such as tablesaws etc (who’s load increases with use).

The generator does not like being operated at too low a power – motors are not designed to simply idle for long periods.  If you need to operate low powered machines only (charging batteries for example), you need to create a load bank to artificially increase the power demand on the generator.  This can be something like a couple of 500W halogen lights.  This generator needs to operate with around 1600W of minimum load (over long periods) (a minimum of 30% of its maximum load). There are smaller (and one larger) generator available from Promac, so you can match the machine to your specific requirements.

This generator has a RCD onboard, so if used as a backup for mains power for the house, it needs to be wired in by an electrician, as you cannot have two RCDs on the same circuit.

The generator produces a pure sine wave of AC current.  This may seem like a no-brainer, but there are now many cheap generators out there that produce DC which is then modified to simulate AC, and result in a stepped waveform.

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Why does that matter?  Well some basic electric machines won’t care – close enough is good enough.  Others however can be damaged very easily with a modified sine wave, such as computers and other electronic devices.  The voltage can also vary significantly, where 260V (and more) can be experienced, dramatically shortening the life of the transformer in the power supply.  So why do generators even exist that don’t produce a pure sine wave?  Cost.  People don’t want to pay for quality, and that is the result.

After unpacking the generator, and fitting the wheels and handles to the generator, next was to add the fluids.  It obviously does not ship with petrol, and the engine is also drained of oil.  There was a box in the package that I assumed was the oil, until I opened it.  Hang on – that is battery acid!  Not labeled though, which was surprising.  Each of the individual containers has a light plastic film covering it, but you don’t remove these.  Instead, the whole container is inverted and jammed on top of the battery (like adding printer ink to an inkjet printer).  The battery has a number of tubes that punch through the film, so in theory there is no chance of an acid leak.  In practice, the inside of the plastic bag that held the acid container was wet with drops of acid, but I couldn’t find any leak in the container.  Be careful, and wash up with plenty of water.

Photo 18-05-13 15 46 29Next, oil, and there is a bit of a choice for what oil to get, depending on the expected temperature.  I chose 10W-30, for temperature ranges between -10 and 30C. (I wonder if there is a correlation between the temperature range, and the oil designation?!  Actually, is just coincidence!)  There is no quantity shown in the manual (that I could find), not on the engine, so I guessed at 1L.  Didn’t seem enough on the dip stick, so added some from a second bottle, and quickly created a puddle on the ground.  Bugger.  Actual amount from dry seems to be about 1100ml.

Fuel was easy – 25L of unleaded (and not one with ethanol), and it was ready to go.

Bit of choke, a turn of the key and the generator fired straight up.  Bring on the next power cut, I’m ready!  Didn’t have time to play with it more – job for another day.

No longer limited by where I can work, the ability to turn fire to electricity is now mine!  Have no fear, this topic won’t be ending here.

So whether you need power on the next job site, need to independently generate power when the grid is not available, or fearing an impending zombie apocalypse, this is serious power generation.

zombieland

Printing with wood…in 3D!

It is perhaps surprising that it is only recently that 3D printing has become a reality – after all, the technology that is used to create the printers has been around for a fair amount of time.  It is however, only recently that people have realised the advantages of being able to create 3 dimensional, functional objects at home.

For the workshop, being able to create functional prototypes, jigs, some tools etc is now very much a reality, and the cost of entry has been rocketing down.  Most printers on the market currently are in the $1000-$2000 bracket for a home-entry machine, and you could (if you have the where-for-all) build one from the basic parts for around $500.

But even that is changing.  On Kickstarter (a crowd-funding website, where you get to fund new projects that would otherwise be unlikely to make it to the mainstream), there is a 3D printer now available (flatpacked, ready for assembly) for $340.

Called the RigidBot, it is still available until about 8am tomorrow morning (11 May) AEST (so about 22 hours to go!).  The funding has gone so well, that their goal of $30000 or so to make it a reality is about to exceed $900000 – there has been a huge amount of excitement about such a cheap, functional machine.

While looking through the information and videos, I was surprised to come across the concept that there is now some sources of a wood filament (presumably something like MDF) so you can print in 3D.

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Of the three owls, the left one is wood, the middle is ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene.  Many common items are made from ABS, including golf club heads, car wheel covers, LEGO Blocks, bicycle & motorcycle helmets, water pipes, electrical conduit, bathroom shower doors, volleyballs, pool liners, toys, furniture, outdoor playground equipment, etc). The right hand one is PLA (Polylactide, or playactic acid.  It is a plant-based plastic, rather than an oil-based one, and is typically made from corn or sugarcane.)  In 3D printing, PLA is generally preferred as it doesn’t warp as much when in contact with a cold print bed (note the warp in the base of the white owl).  This can be alleviated to a significant degree by having a heated bed, discouraging differential cooling, and therefore warping.

It isn’t just a few decorative owls that you can use 3D printing for – it is one of those products where you are limited only by imagination (and failing that, there are 1000s of downloadable designs!) Check out Thiniverse for an amazing catalogue of items you can download and make.  So cool.

For example, you are in your workshop, wanting to use your Kreg jig and the vacuum hose doesn’t fit the collector properly.  Print another one, such as this one specifically for the Festool hose

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Need a featherboard? Print one!

Featherboard_BRAVO_-_Complete_no_pads_preview_featuredIt just goes on and on.  And thinking of featherboards and MagSwitch – if you have a cool idea for a new accessory, you don’t have to try to fabricate it from scrap materials, you could design and print your own.  Forgot to by a present for someone – give them a funky table lamp

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Anyway, I could get carried away.

If you are interested, check out the RigidBot on Kickstarter – 20 hours left.

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RigidBot 3D Printer -- Kicktraq Mini

A Package

The line shaft pulleys and belts have arrived, and they are as good, if not better than their photos.

Definitely showing their near 100 years of age (which is fine, in fact desired), they are a fine example of an age just passed.

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I will definitely talk more about these when they are being set up as a display in the new shed, but just to mention, I was really intrigued by the 3 different leather belts.  One was thin strips of leather stitched together.  One was a single long length of leather (sure there are some joints in there, otherwise it would have been a world-record cow!) which is two wide pieces stitched together.  The last are short strips, with metal joiners ever couple of feet.  Sort of like a modern link V belt, you can increase or decrease the belt length by adding or removing segments.

Two of the belts are really cracked (the solid leather ones), but still pliable (just).  The third is very still indeed, so I will have to find out how to soften the leather enough to be able to properly install it around a couple of the pulleys.

Edit: I still have the plans for a small water wheel.  Be cool to scale the plans up a bit, and have this on the outside of the shed, perhaps even with a water pump providing a stream to turn it.

Driving Miss Daisy

I have now had the Festool CXS Cordless drill/driver for 6 months now (give or take a week) so it is worth a revisit.

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I have been using the CXS extensively in that period, both while getting the old place ready, and since moving into the new one, so have really had a chance to experience its features, capabilities and limitations.

To start, I have heard criticism that this is just a screwdriver.  Of course it is, and no it isn’t on so many levels.  But this will come out as we progress.

The CXS is pretty light – not as much as one of those powered screwdrivers, but then they don’t have the range of features on offer.  I initially took the clip off (comes off easily once the battery is removed), but have since reinstated it.  It doesn’t interfere when you are not needing or using it, and particularly useful when you do.  It is able to be placed on either the left or the right, so a matter of personal preference.

The battery has an impressive longevity, and you can complete a lot of jobs before needing a recharge.  Even so, it comes with a second Li-Ion battery for when the drill stops drilling, and the light flashes (indicating the battery is finally flat).  The charger takes about 20 minutes, so if diligent about charging your battery when it does run down, you’d be hard-pressed to find yourself short.

The front of the CXS has two slots that look like they are there for a bit of styling.  That may be the case, but they are also magnetic to hold an alternate bit (or 4), or the next screw or two.  Above that is a small light, which as previously mentioned indicates when the battery has run down.  The real reason for its existence is to illuminate the are just in front of the drill, particularly useful when working in confined spaces.

To the main function – drilling, and driving.  This isn’t an impact driver, so has no where near the maximum torque of those devices, but there again, that is often a lot of overkill (ideally, your toolbox would have both).  The Centrotec driver holder is not very useful if you don’t have a set of Centrotec bits.  Still, I use the holder as it is easy to rapidly interchange the different heads using the FastFix system.  If you want to fit a traditional hex bit and not use the magnetic extension supplied, you can remove all the heads, and insert the bit directly into the shaft.  Also a method to reduce overall length if you need to get into a confined space.

The drill chuck is also easy to interchange (also FastFix), so it isn’t too much of a hassle to switch between drill bit (for a pilot hole) and the driver.  It is limited to a maximum of 8mm, which seems a bit low.  However, I can understand the rationale behind this – larger will start to push the overall capacity of the driver.  It can still manage drill bits up to 12mm in wood, so long as they have a smaller shaft at the end (bits like this are readily available).  This is not a high-torque tool, and you can find its limit.  The advantage of an electronic motor is it senses the load, and will cut out when it hits the max.  Unlike my last drill, you can’t burn this one out by overloading it!

The shaft autolocks when doing toolless bit changing.  About the only frustration is if you remove the chuck without removing the drill bit – not a big deal, but you can’t remove the drill bit when the chuck is not attached!

You won’t use it as much, but that right-angle adapter is genius when you need it.  Fit either driver bits or the drill chuck to the end, to be able to reach in and around, and still deliver the bit to the work.  Very clever, much quieter than expected, and when you need it, you’ll love having it.

There are 12 torque settings (I rarely remember to use), and two speed settings on the gearbox.

Around this place, I have already forgotten the number of jobs I have used the CXS for.  Drilling and screwing a gate together (metal frame, self tapping screws), building (or reassembing) a bunch of Ikea furniture, and attaching various units to the wall, building a cat run (self-tapping metal screws), and I can’t remember what else – it has almost become a permanent attachment!

So the positives and negatives.

Convenient size and weight (900g)
Able to reach where others cannot
Great battery life and quick recharge
Comfortable ergonomics
Variable speed and torque (although would have preferred a bit more)
Drills and drives. Having additional Centrotec bits would be a real benefit.

Bottom line – having now experienced one for a decent run, would I want one if I didn’t have the one I currently have?  You bet.  I enjoy using this tool  It feels right, it works right  It is spot on for the job it was designed to do.  I love that it comes in a Systainer, not that it gets to see its home very often!

Have a chat to Anthony from Ideal Tools if you want one too. (My Festool supplier of choice :) )

Day on the tools

Nothing like a day on the tools to blow the cobwebs away.

This is what I’ve been working on – a cat run for the new place. Rather than a small run with perhaps a couple of tunnels, it wasn’t that much more to box in the entire side of the house. This makes it easy to get to the rear door to the garage without having to go through gates to the run, and the structure doubles up to carry shade cloth to shield the northern side of the house. I noticed the blinds on that side were always down, and when raised, the carpet was very faded. Shielding those windows will help that, as well as decrease the whole heat loading on the house.

The gate frame came up well, and the ease of assembly (and low cost) of this fence system means I will definitely use it again for fabricating other structures.

The Triton Steel Cutter got a good workout for this, and using the metal fencing wire clips, and a wire twist tool made the job as easy as it could be- the right tools for the job.

May not have been woodworking, but at least something was getting cut, joined, built.

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Line Shafts and Powering Machinery

We have not always had the luxury of small, compact, powerful electric motors for powering workshop machinery.  Instead, once workshops moved to having powered machinery at the start of the Industrial Revolution, they were using water, coal and fuel oil to to power the workshop.

Deutsch: Erste Dampfmaschine in der Dillinger ...

Deutsch: Erste Dampfmaschine in der Dillinger Hütte (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

It would not be economic to run tiny steam engines, let alone split a river into multiple streams, one to each machine and its individual water wheel!  So instead there was one power source that drove a primary line shaft across the workshop, which with a series of pulleys and belts drove ancillary shafts, and from there to individual machines.

Line shaft and belt driven machinery. MACHINE ...

Line shaft and belt driven machinery. MACHINE SHOP NORTH/NORTHEAST INCLUDING OVERHEAD LINE SHAFTING. MOSTLY BELT DRIVEN WITH ONE ROPE DRIVEN LATHE IN MIDDLE GROUND. POWER COMES FROM KNIGHT TURBINE ON FAR WALL SHOWN IN K-77, 78 (42′) HAER CAL,3-SUCRK,1-45 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

I posted a video on one working setup at Sovereign Hill in Ballarat where they demonstrate wagon wheel manufacture, back at Episode 79


Episode 79 Wagon Wheel Manufacture
Formats available: MPEG4 Video (.mp4), Quicktime (.mov), MPEG-4 Video (.m4v)

With the prospect of a new shed on the horizon (and especially one with a higher ceiling), I have already been visualising what the workshop may look like, including giving it some real character.  The romance of the old industrial age is something that does appeal, and where I can’t convert a workshop to run on line shafts (and the OHS implications in this day and age would melt the internet), I can still have some of the relics of this bygone age around, including a pseudo line shaft or two!

I already have one pulley that I bought from Chris Vesper a year or so ago – a very nice example of one, with classic timber laminations.

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While one pulley is nice, having a small collection would be even better, and so I had a bit of a search around eBay.  The timing was perfect, as I not only found the following, I was very fortunate in winning the auction.

But this was was not just an auction of a few of the pulleys, but much more rarely, some leather belts as well.

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With such a cool collection, I’m thinking of recreating a bit of a line shaft setup, and the belts will really add to that effect 10 fold!  Now I just have to get them from the Blue Mountains to Melbourne!

Cannot keep a good brand down

No matter what happens in the workshop, nor what tools I have added over the years, I was out this afternoon doing a job, and realised the only tools I was using were Triton.  One being the Multistand, which gets used all the time – infeed, outfeed, work support etc.

The other, a tool I was really confused about when it first came out, and at the time it concerned me about the direction Triton were heading.  But nevertheless, the Triton Steel Cutter is one of those tools that you are always really pleased having for each and every job you use it on.

Today I started working on a cat run/shade area for the side of the house (might even look at what it’d take to produce a bit of a fernery , but conditions are probably not good enough), and using powder-coated fence steel to do it.  Having a dedicated steel cutter is making it really easy.  It may look like a dropsaw, but it isn’t a matter of putting a steel cutting blade on a standard dropsaw.  The steel cutter is geared down to ensure the blade is running at the right speed.

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I made a video about it aways back – Episode 43.

Pretty sure these are not available anywhere retail, but you can still get them occasionally on eBay.  Sometimes new.  (There are 2 new ones on eBay at the moment for about $150.  They were originally about $400).  That’s if you are interested in one of course!  In the new workshop, I am actually hoping to have a corner where I can finally have it set up, rather than having to drag it out each time I want to use it.  Along with a few other metal working tools (not that I have an abundance of those).  Good for jig-making for one!  We shall see.

Well that is disappointing @kregtoolcompany

I am a definite fan of Kreg, of their Pockethole Jig, of their other tools and accessories (and would welcome more in the workshop).

However.

I was in Carbatec last night, having a bit of a chat, and we got onto the Kreg screws that came in my new Kreg container. These are the ones that are the bastard child of the Robertson screw and Phillips screw. I hate them. They cam out easily. They fall off the end of the square drive. They have wrecked all the advantages of the Robertson screw head, and gained nothing.

But I was hoping it was some random supplier not providing the standard Kreg screw.

On the shelves in Carbatec are new boxes, all Kreg, and all filled with these new screws. I am so disappointed. I will definitely be purchasing some of the big boxes of the old screws before they become unavailable. Then, I will switch to a supplier of Robertson screws that haven’t been compromised with a Phillips head.

On the Kreg website they still show the old heads, and make a big deal about how they don’t cam out etc, which is one of the massive advantages of the original ones. I don’t understand why they have decided to drop that engineering philosophy. I have been exclusively using the new ones recently, attempting to use them up as fast as possible, and they have been falling off the driver, and regularly suffering from cam out (that is when the driver disengages from the head of the screw and spins on the surface, burring screw and drive head alike). They have already wrecked one of my Kreg drivers.

Please Kreg – can we ditch these new ones and return to the tried and true? Please?

The (ex) Triton Engineers have done it again!

To be fair, I don’t know that for certain, but I strongly suspect it, and can see their design philosophy in this new, or rather reworked, product.

First there was the roller stand, which evolved into version 2.0, the Multistand

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I always had about 4 of these “hanging” around.

This became version 2.1 when its manufacturing was sent offshore to China. No real change, but it picked up some black boots on each foot.

This version is still current and in store at places like Carbatec, Amazon etc.

Now I was having a scout around the web, and came across

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The Rockwell JawStand! Given the (ex) Triton engineers who designed the original SuperJaws came up with the magnificent JawHorse

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You can understand why I strongly suspect their involvement in the JawStand.

I suspect they have not arrived in Oz, but nevertheless, I want one! (Or two)

To clarify a point, overseas, Rockwell is the premiere brand for the company, whereas in Australia you are looking for Worx Pro.

Given what they have done to the SuperJaws, and now the Multistand, I wonder if they will ever turn their attention to the Workcentre or Router Table? Sadly, I doubt it, but wouldn’t it be cool?

How about a reworked extension table designed as an aftermarket product for cabinet saws?

Stuffed it up!

So there I was, trying to work out the plans for the shed, and things were just not working as well as I expected, and I put it down to the fact the components I was working with on the Grizzly Planner were not to the same size (scaled) as I needed them to be.

But then I tried a major rearrangement, putting the tablesaw down the back of the proposed shed, and couldn’t get it to fit.  Shouldn’t I have a metre clearance?  So I checked my dimensions.  Then checked them again.  And I finally got it.  The shed was drawn completely the wrong size.  The problem with working in feet & inches, is I don’t know what 96″ looks like (or whatever).  It is not intuitive to me, having primarily worked in metric.

So I then redrew the shed to the right size, and then tried placing in the tools.  Everything looked completely wrong – all the tools have just too much room.  How can that be?  Checked.  Double checked.  I think it is right. WHOA!  Awesome!

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This wasn’t a serious effort at tool layout – couldn’t get over how much room there was.  This fits all the tools, and still space for more that I hadn’t included in the initial planning from the previous shed.  And there is still the mezzanine :)

Some really interesting progress on the shed front – hope to have an update around the end of the week (or there abouts).

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