Power to the people

The ability to make, and harness fire was a defining moment in the history of man.  Being able to progress from utilising fire found in nature, to being able to produce it at will and use it for a variety of tasks, from cooking, hunting (herding animals), through to defense, lighting, heating and more.

Despite the original sources of fire often being electrical (lightning), it was a millenia before electricity itself was harnessed as a tool.

The modern man struggles to make fire to be honest – when was the last time you tried…..without a match or other commercial ignition source?  And it is even worse where it comes to electricity – what do you do when the grid goes down, or worse, you are nowhere near the grid at all?  Sure, solar power is becoming readily available, but unless you want to charge your laptop, portable solar power generation is still in its infancy.

So when you need to generate some serious power, you need a serious tool.  And as a bit of a twist, where fire was first produced with electricity, we need to turn that around, and use fire to produce electricity on demand.

There are a whole range of generators out there, but many would struggle to run a jigsaw, let alone anything serious.  Those that can really run up in price.

In (hopefully) the near future, the shed will be reestablished again, and there will be a time where power will not be available – I could run extension cords from the house, but they are not 15A supplies, so the tablesaw and thicknesser would be both out of action until the electrician can wire it all up.  And with 2HP of dust extractor, and 2400W tools to use alongside that, there is some serious power required.

To address these requirements (and a number of others), we have quite an extraordinary machine.  It comes from Promac – the team that has bought us the quality Flai U blade, the incredible Mustang blade, the exacting BMI range, and the Tormek wetstone sharpeners. I mention this range as it demonstrates the quality of the tools that Promac chooses to supply, and straight out of the box, the quality of this product starts to become apparent.

promac

It is heavy – 88kg dry. Add to this 25L of fuel, and a litre (or so) of oil, and even as the fuel tank empties, you have around 110kg of serious machine.

So what do we have here? Under that 25L tank sits a 13HP electric start motor.  13HP!  I am so used to dealing with machines that top out at 3 1/4HP (the limit of power that can be produced with 2400W tools), 13HP is an impressive motor.  Compare that to your average lawnmower: 3 – 6HP.  Got to be happy it is electric start!  It still has a pull start as well – hope I never need that ;) Output: twin 15A GPOs providing a combined 6.8kVA with 0.8PF (power factor), which in more understandable terms is 5000W, peak load 5500W.  There is also 12V DC if required.

You may wonder why a 6.8kVA machine doesn’t produce 6800W (after all, V x A = W), but there is another dimension here – the volts and amps can be out of phase with each other, and the amount they are is represented by a value between 0 and 1, called the power factor.  Machines that start under load (such as welders and air compressors) demand significant kVA to start.  A general rule of thumb is to work out what is 3x the HP, and this is around the kVA needed by the generator for soft-start motors that start under load.  So this generator can operate a 140A welder, or 10CFM compressor.  In the workshop, I’d be looking to start the dust extractor (which also starts under load), then devices such as tablesaws etc (who’s load increases with use).

The generator does not like being operated at too low a power – motors are not designed to simply idle for long periods.  If you need to operate low powered machines only (charging batteries for example), you need to create a load bank to artificially increase the power demand on the generator.  This can be something like a couple of 500W halogen lights.  This generator needs to operate with around 1600W of minimum load (over long periods) (a minimum of 30% of its maximum load). There are smaller (and one larger) generator available from Promac, so you can match the machine to your specific requirements.

This generator has a RCD onboard, so if used as a backup for mains power for the house, it needs to be wired in by an electrician, as you cannot have two RCDs on the same circuit.

The generator produces a pure sine wave of AC current.  This may seem like a no-brainer, but there are now many cheap generators out there that produce DC which is then modified to simulate AC, and result in a stepped waveform.

images imagess

Why does that matter?  Well some basic electric machines won’t care – close enough is good enough.  Others however can be damaged very easily with a modified sine wave, such as computers and other electronic devices.  The voltage can also vary significantly, where 260V (and more) can be experienced, dramatically shortening the life of the transformer in the power supply.  So why do generators even exist that don’t produce a pure sine wave?  Cost.  People don’t want to pay for quality, and that is the result.

After unpacking the generator, and fitting the wheels and handles to the generator, next was to add the fluids.  It obviously does not ship with petrol, and the engine is also drained of oil.  There was a box in the package that I assumed was the oil, until I opened it.  Hang on – that is battery acid!  Not labeled though, which was surprising.  Each of the individual containers has a light plastic film covering it, but you don’t remove these.  Instead, the whole container is inverted and jammed on top of the battery (like adding printer ink to an inkjet printer).  The battery has a number of tubes that punch through the film, so in theory there is no chance of an acid leak.  In practice, the inside of the plastic bag that held the acid container was wet with drops of acid, but I couldn’t find any leak in the container.  Be careful, and wash up with plenty of water.

Photo 18-05-13 15 46 29Next, oil, and there is a bit of a choice for what oil to get, depending on the expected temperature.  I chose 10W-30, for temperature ranges between -10 and 30C. (I wonder if there is a correlation between the temperature range, and the oil designation?!  Actually, is just coincidence!)  There is no quantity shown in the manual (that I could find), not on the engine, so I guessed at 1L.  Didn’t seem enough on the dip stick, so added some from a second bottle, and quickly created a puddle on the ground.  Bugger.  Actual amount from dry seems to be about 1100ml.

Fuel was easy – 25L of unleaded (and not one with ethanol), and it was ready to go.

Bit of choke, a turn of the key and the generator fired straight up.  Bring on the next power cut, I’m ready!  Didn’t have time to play with it more – job for another day.

No longer limited by where I can work, the ability to turn fire to electricity is now mine!  Have no fear, this topic won’t be ending here.

So whether you need power on the next job site, need to independently generate power when the grid is not available, or fearing an impending zombie apocalypse, this is serious power generation.

zombieland

Kickstarter as a retail outlet?

It is a bit weird (and probably not a particularly appropriate use), but some are starting to use Kickstarter.com as a way to sell their woodwork creations.

For example, this Kickstarter from someone who has been woodworking for about a year, with some segmented turnings.  On the other hand, in doing this, he has already made more money from his woodworking creations in 30 days than I have in over 10 years!

main-image-k2 ??????????

If you haven’t seen Kickstarter before, it is an interesting crowd-funding website, worth a look.

Shed Designer for iOS and Android

It had to happen some time, (and the sooner the better!) – shed manufacturers are releasing design programs for mobile devices.  So now you can design your shed while in the field, in the train, or anywhere else you have your phone or tablet device, and have a few minutes spare.

Down under, and it is Fair Dinkum sheds who have taken the initiative and have just released an app for the iPhone and iPad, as well as a version for Android (and a web version for Mac and PC for those playing at home (or at work ;) )

Photo 15-05-13 22 59 56

I’ve been playing with the iPad app specifically, which is where the screen shots have come from.  Same functionality for the other versions, just different layouts.

The front screen has a number of pages of information (the green buttons), including info about ShedSafe, bit about the company, links to relevant YouTube videos etc.  On the left side, there is a button to take you through to the shed designer package.

Photo 15-05-13 22 13 56 Photo 15-05-13 22 14 41 Photo 15-05-13 22 15 32

In this current version of the software, you can design one of the first 4 styles of shed – future updates should include the other two styles, and include additional options for positioning of extensions, lean-tos etc.

Photo 15-05-13 22 16 02

The picture of the shed is not static either – as you’d expect for an iPad (etc) app, a drag of a finger can pan the shed around, get a higher, or lower perspective.

Even for a basic shed, there are huge numbers of variables available, including a wide range of roof pitches, changing the span and length, and colour it all as you like.

Photo 15-05-13 22 19 01   Photo 15-05-13 22 51 13

Once you have the shed designed, including options you want (skylights, whirlybirds etc), you can submit to to your local Fair Dinkum dealer for a quote, or “share” it on Facebook, Twitter, Email and SMS.

If your shed has features outside the parameters of the software, the dealers have a more sophisticated version of the package to custom design to your heart’s content.  The app is a more simple interpretation of their full design and engineering software. You get to to control the cosmetic features of the shed, which their design software then uses as the basis of its engineering calculations in order to create fully engineered plans and the quote.

The app is free, so you can download and design your current shed, or your next one.

If you visit their web page, there are links through to the app store of your choice (iOS, Android, or web based version for the computer)

fairdinkum

The software itself has a very consistent look and feel, irrespective of your platform of choice.

fairdinkum2

Driving Miss Daisy

I have now had the Festool CXS Cordless drill/driver for 6 months now (give or take a week) so it is worth a revisit.

bs_cxs_564271_p_01a_1

I have been using the CXS extensively in that period, both while getting the old place ready, and since moving into the new one, so have really had a chance to experience its features, capabilities and limitations.

To start, I have heard criticism that this is just a screwdriver.  Of course it is, and no it isn’t on so many levels.  But this will come out as we progress.

The CXS is pretty light – not as much as one of those powered screwdrivers, but then they don’t have the range of features on offer.  I initially took the clip off (comes off easily once the battery is removed), but have since reinstated it.  It doesn’t interfere when you are not needing or using it, and particularly useful when you do.  It is able to be placed on either the left or the right, so a matter of personal preference.

The battery has an impressive longevity, and you can complete a lot of jobs before needing a recharge.  Even so, it comes with a second Li-Ion battery for when the drill stops drilling, and the light flashes (indicating the battery is finally flat).  The charger takes about 20 minutes, so if diligent about charging your battery when it does run down, you’d be hard-pressed to find yourself short.

The front of the CXS has two slots that look like they are there for a bit of styling.  That may be the case, but they are also magnetic to hold an alternate bit (or 4), or the next screw or two.  Above that is a small light, which as previously mentioned indicates when the battery has run down.  The real reason for its existence is to illuminate the are just in front of the drill, particularly useful when working in confined spaces.

To the main function – drilling, and driving.  This isn’t an impact driver, so has no where near the maximum torque of those devices, but there again, that is often a lot of overkill (ideally, your toolbox would have both).  The Centrotec driver holder is not very useful if you don’t have a set of Centrotec bits.  Still, I use the holder as it is easy to rapidly interchange the different heads using the FastFix system.  If you want to fit a traditional hex bit and not use the magnetic extension supplied, you can remove all the heads, and insert the bit directly into the shaft.  Also a method to reduce overall length if you need to get into a confined space.

The drill chuck is also easy to interchange (also FastFix), so it isn’t too much of a hassle to switch between drill bit (for a pilot hole) and the driver.  It is limited to a maximum of 8mm, which seems a bit low.  However, I can understand the rationale behind this – larger will start to push the overall capacity of the driver.  It can still manage drill bits up to 12mm in wood, so long as they have a smaller shaft at the end (bits like this are readily available).  This is not a high-torque tool, and you can find its limit.  The advantage of an electronic motor is it senses the load, and will cut out when it hits the max.  Unlike my last drill, you can’t burn this one out by overloading it!

The shaft autolocks when doing toolless bit changing.  About the only frustration is if you remove the chuck without removing the drill bit – not a big deal, but you can’t remove the drill bit when the chuck is not attached!

You won’t use it as much, but that right-angle adapter is genius when you need it.  Fit either driver bits or the drill chuck to the end, to be able to reach in and around, and still deliver the bit to the work.  Very clever, much quieter than expected, and when you need it, you’ll love having it.

There are 12 torque settings (I rarely remember to use), and two speed settings on the gearbox.

Around this place, I have already forgotten the number of jobs I have used the CXS for.  Drilling and screwing a gate together (metal frame, self tapping screws), building (or reassembing) a bunch of Ikea furniture, and attaching various units to the wall, building a cat run (self-tapping metal screws), and I can’t remember what else – it has almost become a permanent attachment!

So the positives and negatives.

Convenient size and weight (900g)
Able to reach where others cannot
Great battery life and quick recharge
Comfortable ergonomics
Variable speed and torque (although would have preferred a bit more)
Drills and drives. Having additional Centrotec bits would be a real benefit.

Bottom line – having now experienced one for a decent run, would I want one if I didn’t have the one I currently have?  You bet.  I enjoy using this tool  It feels right, it works right  It is spot on for the job it was designed to do.  I love that it comes in a Systainer, not that it gets to see its home very often!

Have a chat to Anthony from Ideal Tools if you want one too. (My Festool supplier of choice :) )

I never realised

I have just arranged for those pulleys to be couriered from Sydney to Melbourne, and the price range is phenomenal when you get quotes.

One company had quoted online for about $40 (but I couldn’t find their website again – forgot just what Google search I’d used, dang it!)

I then got another online quote (was around $60) through a company that uses one of the main courier/freight companies.  Thought I’d just check with that freight/courier company directly how much they’d charge, and the quote came back at almost 3x the price. ($158)

Rather bemused, I didn’t proceed, and did some more online checks, and again got figures much closer to the $60.  So I rang up again, and with exactly the same details, they then quoted $170.

What sort of rip-off bull is the courier industry running?

I did challenge them on the price – they had no answer why they cannot quote the same amount twice in a row, and their answer about the cost difference ($59 vs $170) is because I am not a regular customer.

Seriously?  How about any other industry that treated their customers the same way?  Go into McDonalds and a regular pays $5 for a Big Mac, and a non-regular is expected to pay $15?  How about Australia Post – post a letter regularly and it is $0.50, but if it is once in a blue moon, $1.50?

I can understand some variance for customer loyalty, and regular purchasers of a service, but to sting a non-regular for so much seems criminal – the price obviously has no reflection on the actual cost to conduct that business.  The distance is the same, the parcel is the same size and weight, fuel is the same, driver time is the same.  Sure, give regulars a discount, but charging a non regular 3 times the price is like saying “sure, we will deliver your parcel, but we are not interested in you, or your business.  If you want to send it anyway, here’s some bullsh*t price you can either accept or not, either way, we don’t care about you”.

So thanks.  I’ll remember that next time I am looking to do business, or establishing a long-term business relationship in the future.

EasyWood

These are an interesting concept as found by the Roving Reporter, from Easy Wood Tools.  It is a concept I have seen elsewhere, but these look a well refined solution.

easyEach has a carbide tip, so sharpening on the fly is not necessary, as the tool dulls with use, rotate the cutter, and finally replace it.  Of course, if you have the Tormek Sharpener with the Blackstone Silicon wheel, then you can resharpen the carbide cutters.

Haven’t seen these in person, so I don’t know how they shape up in reality, or how they would compare to my Hamlet chisels for example.  Although carbide cannot be sharpened to the same degree as tool steel, in practice most wood turners don’t sharpen their chisels to the nth degree in any case, and the long durability of a carbide edge has a lot of appeal.

Hard Yards

In the next day or so, issue 2, 2013 of ManSpace will be on the shelves

ms

No idea how I managed to get my articles across the line for this issue – those were some hard yards!  I’d just finished a major evolution at work (relocating about 550 staff and students in a major building reorganisation), and then as I was writing the articles themselves I was physically packing and moving house.

My articles in the current issue include:

Sharpening Drill Bits (3 pages), looking at the Drill Doctor vs the Tormek w DBS jig

Nova Comet II Lathe (2 pages)

6 Step Project – creating a kid’s blackboard (3 pages)

Let me know what you think of them!

For those who cannot get ManSpace, along with their Facebook page, they now have their website up and running ManSpace.

If you go into “In the Shed”, then “Tips and Tricks”, you will find 9 articles I wrote for previous issues. (The deck article is not one of mine!)

msw2

Progress?

It has been very quiet around here….too quiet (just to roll out that Dead Horse Trope). Unfortunately, unlike the movies, I have no idea if things will suddenly burst into action or not.

I’ve been getting quotes, checking them twice, working out who’s naughty and who’s nice.
Been comparing shed manufacturing companies, and my local retail franchises, and there are big differences in some areas (such as attitudes, willingness to work through designs etc), and very little in others (such as available design options, and cost). I’m not mentioning company names here- this isn’t a name and shame.

I took one design back yesterday to one company, and wanted to see how much cheaper it would be to not do an American barn, with all the doors I originally planned, and go with an Aussie Barn- much lower design, no mezzanine, minimal doors and the price barely changed- about $1000 cheaper.

So this says to me that the decrease in height of 1/2 a metre across a 9 metre length of shed, (total about 12 m2) including all the support beams that decrease, and all the insulation, less 9m in guttering, the cost of a 10 m2 mezzanine, less 3 personal access doors and 2 windows, all added together is only $1000. The erecting cost was unchanged. Wow. Perhaps I should take the American barn, and add an additional 1/2 m in height, more mezzanine, more access doors etc etc. Would the price go up only another $1000? And no difference in erecting cost?

When I queried the lack of difference in price, the response was “I’m only quoting what the software tells me”

I was looking at decreasing the design to minimise cost- I thought I would make a lot of compromises to see how much difference it would make. Very disappointing.

So I then looked at what I could get if my total project budget was capped at $10k. With me erecting the shed, and without even factoring in the cost of lighting, I could not replace what I previously had (which we know was becoming unworkable). You don’t know what you had until it is gone.

I am finding it very difficult to find things to write about, as you would have noticed in the decrease in output. And all this back and forth is very draining. However, without a shed for Stu, there is no Stu’s Shed. And that is not an option I enjoy contemplating. It is a very frustrating situation.

Cannot keep a good brand down

No matter what happens in the workshop, nor what tools I have added over the years, I was out this afternoon doing a job, and realised the only tools I was using were Triton.  One being the Multistand, which gets used all the time – infeed, outfeed, work support etc.

The other, a tool I was really confused about when it first came out, and at the time it concerned me about the direction Triton were heading.  But nevertheless, the Triton Steel Cutter is one of those tools that you are always really pleased having for each and every job you use it on.

Today I started working on a cat run/shade area for the side of the house (might even look at what it’d take to produce a bit of a fernery , but conditions are probably not good enough), and using powder-coated fence steel to do it.  Having a dedicated steel cutter is making it really easy.  It may look like a dropsaw, but it isn’t a matter of putting a steel cutting blade on a standard dropsaw.  The steel cutter is geared down to ensure the blade is running at the right speed.

00922944000

I made a video about it aways back – Episode 43.

Pretty sure these are not available anywhere retail, but you can still get them occasionally on eBay.  Sometimes new.  (There are 2 new ones on eBay at the moment for about $150.  They were originally about $400).  That’s if you are interested in one of course!  In the new workshop, I am actually hoping to have a corner where I can finally have it set up, rather than having to drag it out each time I want to use it.  Along with a few other metal working tools (not that I have an abundance of those).  Good for jig-making for one!  We shall see.

Well that is disappointing @kregtoolcompany

I am a definite fan of Kreg, of their Pockethole Jig, of their other tools and accessories (and would welcome more in the workshop).

However.

I was in Carbatec last night, having a bit of a chat, and we got onto the Kreg screws that came in my new Kreg container. These are the ones that are the bastard child of the Robertson screw and Phillips screw. I hate them. They cam out easily. They fall off the end of the square drive. They have wrecked all the advantages of the Robertson screw head, and gained nothing.

But I was hoping it was some random supplier not providing the standard Kreg screw.

On the shelves in Carbatec are new boxes, all Kreg, and all filled with these new screws. I am so disappointed. I will definitely be purchasing some of the big boxes of the old screws before they become unavailable. Then, I will switch to a supplier of Robertson screws that haven’t been compromised with a Phillips head.

On the Kreg website they still show the old heads, and make a big deal about how they don’t cam out etc, which is one of the massive advantages of the original ones. I don’t understand why they have decided to drop that engineering philosophy. I have been exclusively using the new ones recently, attempting to use them up as fast as possible, and they have been falling off the driver, and regularly suffering from cam out (that is when the driver disengages from the head of the screw and spins on the surface, burring screw and drive head alike). They have already wrecked one of my Kreg drivers.

Please Kreg – can we ditch these new ones and return to the tried and true? Please?

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 1,262 other followers

%d bloggers like this: